A plethora of updates!
Wow, it's been a few weeks since I've posted - I've been super busy with various things, first aid qualification and Single Pitch Award training being amongst them, along with plenty of climbing of course! With this being a large update I've broken it down into a few sections to make it more palatable, I'll do my best to update regularly from now on. I'm also putting together the beginnings of a training program for myself so I can improve faster and train specific areas of my technique, so I'll be using the blog to keep that on track.
Pt. 1 - Goodbye bike, the joy of slabs, and training.
So, despite having got my brand new Canyon Strive back and loving riding again, something just didn't sit right - I needed money to pursue other areas of my interests, so I decided to sell up and get something different, along with freeing up a chunk of funds which I could then re-invest. With this in mind, the Strive drove off to Scotland with another rider, and I set about allocating my new found funds... First to come were a few choice pieces of climbing gear, a GriGri 2 and a couple of cams to add to the slowly growing collection. Pretty soon after that, I bit the bullet and ordered a pair of Atomic Alibi skis with Marker Jester bindings, and popped over to Snow and Rock to check what boots they had on offer in the sales - I'm not sure what I was expecting, but I ended up walking away with a pair of Tecnica Demon 130's, which I can't wait to try out.
As for the bike, I decided to build myself a custom AM hardtail, the perfect tool for thrashing around the Peaks and working towards my MBLA - the build isn't finished yet, but it comprises of a Dialled Alpine frame with Rockshox Revelation RLT forks, Hope Pro II Evo hubs laced on Stans Arch EX rims, SLX brakes and a KS dropper post. This should be a very fun bike once complete, so I can't wait to get it finished and out on the trails.
Later the same week we headed out to Oldpits Quarry near Hayfield, one of the more obscure places in my favourite guidebook, Over the Moors, which describes it as a hidden gem with some classic routes in the mid extreme grades. I was particularly keen to try out the E4/6b 2 star 'Scorched Earth', which features a tricky slab route on well spaced gear. After warming up on a very loose HVS, I set about it and smeared up the entry slab with ease, placed the protection for the crux, stood up and toppled backwards in dismay as I realised there were no more holds in reach. I spent the rest of the day trying to send the route, but the more I tried the more futile my attempts became, and when I finally realised where the route went (off to the left and back across on good holds), I was too tired to do anything about it. Here's a quick photo though! (On the boulder in the centre of the quarry).
The weekend after this was SPA training, which was enjoyable in the blazing sun and good company. Now to get out and log as much experience as possible!
Pt. 2 - Trip to the Roaches
Over the previous few weeks myself and a few friends planned a trip to the Roaches to get some classic routes done - we booked the Don Whillans Memorial Hut, (otherwise known as Rock hall), for four nights, and prayed and hoped for good weather - we were rewarded beyond measure, with the sun coming out in force on every single day, providing great opportunity for photos. Over the week we got a number of climbs done, but the ones that stick in my memory are firstly my on-sight ascent of 'Elegy' (E2) which despite being on a top rope was an exciting experience, and one I look to repeat on the lead. Secondly, my lead-onsight of 'Bulwark' E1, which started off deceptively easily with good gear, then wandered out onto the buttress in a bold run out that required committing moves on sloping holds with the gear a shockingly long distance away. Thirdly, my attempt at 'Wings of Unreason' (E4/6b), which despite breezing up the upper slap on a top rope, I simply could not pull the crux - another day, I think. Here are a few choice photos from the trip, enjoy!
Lowering off the slab on Wings of Unreason, E4/6b
Calculating the leap on Joes Arete, V3 Cooking pancakes in the kitchen at Rock Hall
Just a bunch of friends and some rocks to climb!
James pulling hard on the good pocket
The Roaches skyline over to Hen Cloud... Magnificent
Stepping pensively across the bulge on Elegy (E2/5c) - Definitely the crux.
Pt. 3 - Time to push
So, after my trip to the Roaches I'm even more motivated to push myself onto harder routes and to increase my fitness - my main problem seems to be endurance, so I'm going to be doing some focussed training to work on that, including circuits and regular climbs in the 6c/6c+ range to get myself stronger. 7a is hard work at the moment, and I feel that with more focussed training I will be able get solid on 7a and be able to look beyond to 7b/c and hopefully F8! Last Sunday was a great sport session over at Harpur Hill, warming up on a 6a+ route, followed by working a very strenuous and committing route 'Sumo' (7a). This route led up an overhang, which is one of the reasons I picked it with overhangs being one of my weaker areas - as is often the case, the first session on the route saw me get the moves dialled, but by the time I had the route down I was too tired to pull the crux cleanly - I'll get it next session, but power endurance training will definitely help in my recovery time on routes meaning I can send them a lot faster.
The next session on Monday was excellent, starting with a determined on sight attempt at 'Electric Circus' (E3/5c) at New Mills Torrs, which I unfortunately lost a mere three metres from the top of the 26 metre pitch. Not to be deterred, I pulled through the last few metres and claimed the top - I'll be back to do it clean soon. After retrieving the gear, we bouldered around for a while, before I made a casual solo attempt at 'Soiled Goods' (E2/5C) - I've lead the 8m route before and really enjoyed it, so the line was just begging for a solo attempt. The climb went very smoothly aside from a sketchy moment near the top where my foot popped off the mantle and I took a big swing on the right hand hold, which thankfully was decent.
All in all a great month, and much to look forward too! Stay tuned for (hopefully) regular updates!
Mischa.
Pt. 1 - Goodbye bike, the joy of slabs, and training.
So, despite having got my brand new Canyon Strive back and loving riding again, something just didn't sit right - I needed money to pursue other areas of my interests, so I decided to sell up and get something different, along with freeing up a chunk of funds which I could then re-invest. With this in mind, the Strive drove off to Scotland with another rider, and I set about allocating my new found funds... First to come were a few choice pieces of climbing gear, a GriGri 2 and a couple of cams to add to the slowly growing collection. Pretty soon after that, I bit the bullet and ordered a pair of Atomic Alibi skis with Marker Jester bindings, and popped over to Snow and Rock to check what boots they had on offer in the sales - I'm not sure what I was expecting, but I ended up walking away with a pair of Tecnica Demon 130's, which I can't wait to try out.
As for the bike, I decided to build myself a custom AM hardtail, the perfect tool for thrashing around the Peaks and working towards my MBLA - the build isn't finished yet, but it comprises of a Dialled Alpine frame with Rockshox Revelation RLT forks, Hope Pro II Evo hubs laced on Stans Arch EX rims, SLX brakes and a KS dropper post. This should be a very fun bike once complete, so I can't wait to get it finished and out on the trails.
Later the same week we headed out to Oldpits Quarry near Hayfield, one of the more obscure places in my favourite guidebook, Over the Moors, which describes it as a hidden gem with some classic routes in the mid extreme grades. I was particularly keen to try out the E4/6b 2 star 'Scorched Earth', which features a tricky slab route on well spaced gear. After warming up on a very loose HVS, I set about it and smeared up the entry slab with ease, placed the protection for the crux, stood up and toppled backwards in dismay as I realised there were no more holds in reach. I spent the rest of the day trying to send the route, but the more I tried the more futile my attempts became, and when I finally realised where the route went (off to the left and back across on good holds), I was too tired to do anything about it. Here's a quick photo though! (On the boulder in the centre of the quarry).
The weekend after this was SPA training, which was enjoyable in the blazing sun and good company. Now to get out and log as much experience as possible!
Pt. 2 - Trip to the Roaches
Over the previous few weeks myself and a few friends planned a trip to the Roaches to get some classic routes done - we booked the Don Whillans Memorial Hut, (otherwise known as Rock hall), for four nights, and prayed and hoped for good weather - we were rewarded beyond measure, with the sun coming out in force on every single day, providing great opportunity for photos. Over the week we got a number of climbs done, but the ones that stick in my memory are firstly my on-sight ascent of 'Elegy' (E2) which despite being on a top rope was an exciting experience, and one I look to repeat on the lead. Secondly, my lead-onsight of 'Bulwark' E1, which started off deceptively easily with good gear, then wandered out onto the buttress in a bold run out that required committing moves on sloping holds with the gear a shockingly long distance away. Thirdly, my attempt at 'Wings of Unreason' (E4/6b), which despite breezing up the upper slap on a top rope, I simply could not pull the crux - another day, I think. Here are a few choice photos from the trip, enjoy!
Calculating the leap on Joes Arete, V3 Cooking pancakes in the kitchen at Rock Hall
Pt. 3 - Time to push
So, after my trip to the Roaches I'm even more motivated to push myself onto harder routes and to increase my fitness - my main problem seems to be endurance, so I'm going to be doing some focussed training to work on that, including circuits and regular climbs in the 6c/6c+ range to get myself stronger. 7a is hard work at the moment, and I feel that with more focussed training I will be able get solid on 7a and be able to look beyond to 7b/c and hopefully F8! Last Sunday was a great sport session over at Harpur Hill, warming up on a 6a+ route, followed by working a very strenuous and committing route 'Sumo' (7a). This route led up an overhang, which is one of the reasons I picked it with overhangs being one of my weaker areas - as is often the case, the first session on the route saw me get the moves dialled, but by the time I had the route down I was too tired to pull the crux cleanly - I'll get it next session, but power endurance training will definitely help in my recovery time on routes meaning I can send them a lot faster.
The next session on Monday was excellent, starting with a determined on sight attempt at 'Electric Circus' (E3/5c) at New Mills Torrs, which I unfortunately lost a mere three metres from the top of the 26 metre pitch. Not to be deterred, I pulled through the last few metres and claimed the top - I'll be back to do it clean soon. After retrieving the gear, we bouldered around for a while, before I made a casual solo attempt at 'Soiled Goods' (E2/5C) - I've lead the 8m route before and really enjoyed it, so the line was just begging for a solo attempt. The climb went very smoothly aside from a sketchy moment near the top where my foot popped off the mantle and I took a big swing on the right hand hold, which thankfully was decent.
All in all a great month, and much to look forward too! Stay tuned for (hopefully) regular updates!
Mischa.
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